A few years back, here in Oz, the local gunshop sells some hunting load in an ugly brown box, with a label which printed "Ray Trade - Feral FIx" on it. These load works like magic in my 308. with a thin barrel ruger M77 MkII on Zytel stock that is straight off the factory with no trigger job, no accurizing whatsoever, I could get 1/2 inch group at 100 meters.

Sadly, the ammo is of a limited number only and no longer available. Now, I have exactly TWO of these cartridges left on my ammo box. I been thinking to reproduce these loads.

So, help me with this...tell me if my plan is wrong or there are other things I should do.

I should
1. measure the OAL of the cartridge
2. weigh the whole cartridge
3. Pull the bullet out
4. Weigh the bullet and note the shape
5. weigh the powder and note the shape/type/color etc
6. measure the case length of the un fired case.



Next, I should find a similar type of bullet with the same weight and similar type of powder (this is the hard part...) and reload some cases to replicate the above and shoot it to try the loads.

Am I thinking right? Did I miss anything? Anyone use these loads before?

Gelan

I think the hardest part will be to figure out which powder they used. Likely even impossible.

If its Australian perhaps Australian powder was used.

I'm thinking small time guy with a couple of Dillon presses made them as a side job and once the laws got strict he dropped out.

As for the powder measure it and look at ADI powders (I think thats the Australian company) that are roughly that weight for the 308Win, then look at the grain stuctor, then if you want burn alittle pile of it (safely ofcourse) and the powders you narrowed down to see which one produces the same flash.

Thats what I can think of.

Also only refrance to Ray Trade ammunition I can find lists:

Quote::

RAY TRADE 308 150gr RNPP HOG STOPER HS308 $14.70

Its a Australian store, www.lockstockandbarrel...nindex.htm

Dimitri

Quote::

As for the powder measure it and look at ADI powders (I think thats the Australian company) that are roughly that weight for the 308Win, then look at the grain stuctor, then if you want burn alittle pile of it (safely ofcourse) and the powders you narrowed down to see which one produces the same flash. Smile

EXTREME SAFETY ERROR:
Do not try to identify the powder by shape, size, etc. It is probably a canister powder not usually available to the public. You would be making a dangerous guess.
So in short do not try to shortcut the reloading process. Pick a bullet, Powder, primer, case and get on with working up an accurate load of your own. If your rifle shoots a factory round in 1/2" it will do it with your handloads.

Popgun,

I ment find the powder by elimiation by figuring out what powders are avalible and a safe charge would be equal to a equivilant ADI powder.

So if it weights X amount and the weight for that powder with that type of bullet falls in between 10% to 5% less of max (still safe for 99% of all guns) it might be it.

Anyways I kept looking for refernces to this type of bullet and cant find any, so I'm going to assume Gelandangan that its a one off type thing and not commercially made ammo so I wonder if he just didn't pick up off the shelf componates and worked up a load that worked in a couple of guns and sold it.

If you call up the store I posted maybe they'll have information you are seeking.

Dimitri

Quote::

I ment find the powder by elimiation by figuring out what powders are avalible and a safe charge would be equal to a equivilant ADI powder.

Again, you can not identify a powder by its shape, size, color, or anything else. There are powders that are not available to the public for reloading that many factory rounds use for components. Also, Powders are discontinued all the time, changed, etc. etc. You might as well hold a lighted stick of dynamite in your hand while attempting to identify and use a powder used in a factory round. I refer you to the safety sections of any reloading manual. While there go to the caliber, in this case 308, and look for the most accurate powder tested for a particular bullet weight. That is the place to start.

You are right Popgun. My mistake.

Dimitri

Popgun is right, you would be best to work up your own load using powder that works best in your gun, recomended for that caliber. I'm sure something out there would work as well. There may be a little trial and error as per accuracy but that's what reloading is all about and that's why we reload.

gelandangan, how are you mate?

Listen to what Popgun has said....go back and read it over and over to make sure you understand it. DO NOT under any circumstances try to duplicate a load by visual identification of the powder.....you WILL destroy your rifle, and probably yourself.

Mate, Raytrade is in Dandenong South in Victoria...I will PM you contact details for them. Drop them a line and ask them about the rounds you are looking for, they will be able to tell you if they are still available or if there is a replacement and where you could find them.

Alternatively give them a ring at Horsley Park Gun Shop, David should be able to help you out with something.

Horsley Park Gun Shop

Finally, develop a load to suit your rifle. Its a lot of fun and very satisfying when it all comes together. Yell if you need a hand mate.

Cheers, Vince

Dimitri, I tried the Hog Stopper, it does not do it on the accuracy test.

Popgun, I think you are right. I should just built up the accuracy by slow reloads.

being lazy, I was looking for a shortcut...

Gelan

Gelan;

Would you please answer a few questions for me?

How long have you been shooting and/or reloading?

What calibers do you regularly shoot/reload for?

At what game? Size, species, etc.

Even if that one load works fine in your rifle, there are certainly others that will work as well. Treat yourself to a sampling of factory loads, and test them in your rifle, even if you find more of your good one.
The .308 is a most forgiving caliber, and will probably shoot well with a few other loads.

To echo Popgun and Vince, NEVER try to identify a powder by physical apearance. It is a safety thing!
Bullets are hard, too. The visual difference between 30 cal. 150 and 165 gr. spitzers is very small.
Once more, I commend to you the careful reading of a good reloading manual, particularly the several chapters which deal with basic "how to." The Lyman books haven't changed that section in years!

That is also a safety thing, which is the main thing when dabbling in a hazardous activity like reloading or shooting. Be careful and safe!

Oooh....I want to go....Free sausage sizzle...

Sounds like you are in for a real operation there Gelandangan. Just think of all the fun you are going to have testing all the different types of powders, bullets, cases and primers until you find the combination that works.

gelandangan there is some things you can do to shorten the process. First you can identify the brass which brand was used, by pulling the bullet you MAY be able to identify the bullets manufacture, and weigh the bullet and to get the weight. The primer maybe difficult but then again it may not. After accumulating what you can use a loading manual to find suitable powders to begin your testing. As stated you may or may not be able to duplicate what you had, BUT you should have fun trying. I know I would.

Where did you come up with "nomikes" anyway. Just curious.

Mike

Well, Bushmaster besides being a avid hunter I also compete in USPSA IPSC pistol and Multi-gun matches. Since I'm limited to hunting for only a few weeks out of the year I spend the rest of my trigger time competing. The term mike is a missed target and since I don't like missing the term nomikes was born.