OK, how much and who's got 'em?? Since we are talking about reloading issues I am wondering if there are some favorite 270 Winchester loads for 130 gr BTSP out there that some might be willing to share??? I load for accuracy and don't think much about high speed unless it comes with the load.
I am still looking for tips for my trimmer!

Vint, When it comes right down to it there is nothing wrong with what you got!!!
Monitor what your doing by measuring and learn what works better over time.
If you really want to up grade I stick by my original statements about the Wilson. They are a lot less money and probably the most widely used in benchrest.
I’ve looked into the two units that was mentioned a few years back, great stuff, would love to have them, just not at the price they sell for. They are also geared towards the guy needing to trim large quantities of cases.

Vint...I really wouldn't worry too much about case length as I would about shoulder placment and OAL of the bullet and case. Case trimming for rifle is more about not having a case too long that it pinches the bullet causing a spike in pressure.

Revolver case trimming is all about getting a consistent crimp and trimming pistol brass is not even a problem (unless you are me)....

Bushie, I forgot to ask what is meant by shoulder placement and what do you do to get it right?????

Most bottle neck cases headspace on the shoulder of the case. The farther forward the shoulder is the less head space and vice versa. If you have too much head space you can get case seperation or at the least shorter case life and backed out primers.

OK, so I suspect you are telling me I need a gauge that I don't have???

No...Not necessary. Your chamber and resizing die is about all you need. Most of the time if you set the die up as the manufacturer recommends you will be right on. Maybe a little tight or a little loose. What I did with my Browning A-bolt was to raise the die off the shell holder one turn resize that case. reload it and fire it. Then turn the die one more turn and resize the same case. Reload it and......Until I started having problems closing the bolt on the empty case. Then turn the die in 1/2 turn until the bolt closed easy again. When you reach the point that the bolt is hard to close you don't need to reload the case until you have readjusted the die back in and the bolt will close on the empty case. Then reload it and fire it. Resize it again and see if the bolt will close on it this time. Lock the die and yer good. Be sure you keep the case length and OAL within specs...

Basicly you are fire forming your cases to fit your rifle's chamber. Once you have done this it is very possible that your rounds will not fit in any other chamber.

It just so happens that I needed to trim some .260 Rem cases that someone gave me. These are Federals, once fired. I carefully set the trimmer to 2.025", the trim-to length in the Speer manual. I measured each case after trimming. Out of 25 cases; 23 measured 2.025" and 2 measured 2.024". The two short ones were numbers 23 and 24. Number 25 was OK. I think I may have pushed a little harder on those as I was getting bored with trimming cases!

Now they weren't EXACTLY 2.025", sometimes the caliper needle was just "plus" or "minus" the hash mark. I'd estimate 0.0002-3" variations but I don't have a way to check that here.

On another note, I started with the cutter dry but added a drop of oil about half way through. It cut much easier after that but I'll have to be sure to clean the oil out of the inside of the case neck before loading.

I might try another experiment later by using a spring to control the cutting force instead of just pushing on it. From what I've seen so far that is the only uncontrolled variable.

However, as Bushy points out, I don't think this is all that important to most if us for hunting or plinking loads. The main reason to trim is to keep the case from getting so long that, when jammed into the chamber throat, it pinches the bullet, raising the pressure.

At this point I need to thank everyone for their input and encouragement on this issue!! Thanks much,guys!!! Pull up a stump anytime for coffee or a beer(depends on the time!) and maybe a venison supper!!!
Have to get together with my shooting buddy, so catch y'all later!!!

Pumpkin, do you trim your cases with every re-load?

I'll answer that one, Pumpkinslinger...

If the rifle caliber requires a crimp...Yes, to maintain a consistent crimp.
If the rifle caliber does not require a crimp. No, only when it is in need of trimming (too long).
If it is a revolver case that requires a crimp. Yes, to maintain a consistent crimp.
If it is a pistol case that does not need a crimp. No, except (in my situation) .45 ACP cases. I have a Colt that performs best with .890 +/- .001 inch cases...

That ought to get you going Chambered...

Not what I was getting at but some here may have needed that info!!!

Chambered, nope. I trim all new brass, and all new-to-me used brass, before I use it. Then I check it before reloading and trim if needed, i.e. if it is close to max length.

Bushy has it right though. I do think that for accuracy's sake all cases that headspace on the case mouth should be trimmed. It doesn't make much sense to be picky about powder charges and seating depths if the case lengths vary any. I don't bother with plinking loads though.

OK,guys, I have another question for y'all! Is there one brass that is consistently better or does everybody just have a preference???? I seem to be having some troubles with Federal and Remington. Winchester seems good. Have not used any others.

What kind of trouble ???

I’ve had batches of brass from those 3 that were good and bad!!!

Lapua is considered by many to be the best you can get.
Norma is well known for their quality.
The new Nosler stuff seems to be gaining popularity amongst the accuracy crowd as well.