Of course, I can't find it again, but I read somewhere regarding annealing cartridge case necks, where the person used a candle to heat the case neck and shoulder, holding the case with his fingers, and then dropped it into a pail of water when it could no longer be comfortably held.

Has anyone used this method? Are there any other fairly simple methods that work as well or better?

Thanks.

Hi Sniper...the best treatise on the subject is VarmintAl's website:

www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm#danger1


I don't know how to make the URL click-able, sorry you'll have to C&Paste.

I've annealed cases for cast bullet loading and used a similar technique to the one above. My cases were submerged to the base of the neck and I used a soldering torch to heat the necks dull red in a dark room, then tipped them over with a rod.


SHOOTIST

Same here! use a old cake pan, set them in water to just below the necks and heat with propane torch, and tip over when red.

Isn't the whole idea of annealing to soften the material you are working with? ie Case brass. I can say for sure when you want to anneal steel you heat the material until it glows red, then allow it to cool slowly "no quench".

I bet brass would act the same way.

longwalker

Longwalker,

I'm not sure about brass but your absolutly right for steels You dont want to quench steel as it will "harden it".

Dimitri

Nope, you loose your bet! Ive been annealing brass that way for 18 years and it works fine,
You dont get it glowing red, just when it starts the red glow, then tip into water.

Oh interesting Crackshot, wouldnt have figured that annealing brass would be much different then annealing steel.

Dimitri

Ferrous metal are heated and slow cooled - the slower the better.
Non-ferrous metals like bronze, copper and brass are heated and qhenched fast - the faster the better.
The funny part of this mess is that they both work harden - though bronze, brass and copper work harden much faster. You have a hard time forging non-ferrous metals because they harden and crack with just a few impacts. Steel is much easier to forge because it stays soft enough to work for a lot longer.

Sorry guys...

Why would you want to anneal brass? Don't understand

What are you upto?

D

DaveyBoy,

Never done it myself but I belive its so you can get more neck resizes done on the brass without causing too much stress as its softer then before

Dimitri

Scared of putting their hands in their pockets, eh? Tighter than a ducks chuff!



D

Hi Daveyboy....I'll give you my reasons for annealing.

When cartridge brass is repeatedly sized,it becomes work hardened due to cold working of the brass. After about 5 sizings, depending on neck thickness, the necks tend to split. Heating to about 675 deg F will soften the brass to a strain relieved state.
When shooting cast bullets, annealing is recommended to prevent deformation of the cast bullet when seating and also for constant neck tension. Some reloaders discard the brass after seeing neck splits and don't anneal.


SHOOTIST

Shootist summed it up for ya Daveboy!

So let me get this straight.

Bang, reload, bang, reload, bang, reload, bang, split. Throw it away.

But... If I anneal the cases at a certain point in the proceedings, then the case won't split because the brass has been heated to the red glow stage and then dropped into water.

Which... Will make the brass more maleable so extending the life of the case.

So... I can get more reloads out of the case.

Comprende?

Daveyboy,
There is another reason to anneal brass - If I am making 358 Winchester case from a 308 case then at least 1 of 3 will split in the forming process. If I take the time to anneal the cases I get 1 out of 50 or so that will be ruined in the forming process. I then anneal them again so that they are not too brittle to reload. I haven't had to anneal any cases after that but I haven't shot any of those more than five times yet.