Hi I'm new here and I have a question maybe some one can answer for me. I want to buy a triumph and it is said the new breech plug desighn makes it so much easier to clean well i heard that somtimes you take the breech plug out that it's a pain to put back in . Anyone have this problem?

Thanks Gil in denver

Welcome aboard nosman20. Pull up a stump, grab a beer and sit awhile.

I'm sure that someone with the knowledge you requested will be along presently.

Cheers, Vince

Vince wrote:

Welcome aboard nosman20. Pull up a stump, grab a beer and sit awhile. I'm sure that someone with the knowledge you requested will be along presently. Cheers, Vince

Thank you I'm gald i found this site!

Welcome to the sight. I don't know anything about muzzleloaders, so I can't help you there.

Define "hard". I have an inline that requires removing the stock, then the breech plug wrench for the breech. I would have to be mighty "hard" before I would complain too much. I have a buddy who just bought one. He has shot it only to sight it in (5 times maybe) and has not had that problem. May I suggest also trying the American Pioneer (Jim Shockey backed) powders. I swear you can shoot 10 times and not have to clean. I won't use anything else. I don't shoot 10 times w/o cleaning, but you could (probably...).

nosman20 wrote:

Hi I'm new here and I have a question maybe some one can answer for me. I want to buy a triumph and it is said the new breech plug desighn makes it so much easier to clean well i heard that somtimes you take the breech plug out that it's a pain to put back in . Anyone have this problem? Thanks Gil in denver

I have a friend that let me play with his a few weeks back. It's more difficult to remove a dirty plug from one than it is to replace a clean one. They have three rings that are supposed to seal the combustion gases away from the threads, but the rings will get fouled and make removal slightly more difficult than a clean plug, however all it takes is 1/4 turn and a tap or two with the ramrod to remove a stubborn plug.

The rings are similar to the piston rings in your car's engine. They require a slight bit of compression too, so you will feel some resistance when you replace the plug. The 1/4 turn interrupted thread design of the plug make them necessary to keep gases from blowing out the breech end. Once you get used to the "feel", it's not really a big deal (IMO). I had similar apprehension the first time I played with the Pro-Hunter model (It uses the same 1/4 turn interrupted thread design).

Hope this helps.


Oh Yea, I almost forgot.

Welcome to the site!

From watching a show on the tube, the comintater says there is a real reasonn the triumph comes with a plug wrench. Make sure you use some good lubricant when relpacing it ot the tephlon tape. My Omega has a wrench that is stamped steel but I use a 7/16 socket and 3/8 rachet and it is no problem!

I purchased a full camo (lock, stock and barrel) Triumph a few weeks ago and have mounted a Nikon 3-9 BDC camo scope on it in camo QD mounts. I'm still working on what loads I am going to use in it, but last Saturday's results at the range were pretty good with Barnes MZ Expanders in 250 and 300 grain. I've got some Barnes 245 grain Spit-Fires currently on order.

To answer your question first. The breech plug is easy to take out and put back in with your fingers, although with the scope on it it's a bit more difficult because the scope is kind of in the way. A couple of things that help if you are at the range is occasionally pulling the breech plug out and putting it back in. Always, always use a good anti-seizing lubricant on both the thread of the breech plug and the receiver. I fired my Triumph around 50 or so times last Saturday and I did have to use the wrench that came with it to initially loosen it, but I didn't have to apply much pressure. I also had to bump it loose with the ramrod, but no big deal.

Then I discovered somethign while cleaning the breechplug. The gaps on the three "rings" were all in alignment with each other and I have a feeling that allowed more crud to blow by them. I spaced them out and my next time at the range will tell if that has any effect.

Thompson Center muzzleloaders are known for having some of the tightest bores around and I've found that most of the saboted bullets I've tried so far have been extremely hard to shove down the barrel. Those include T/C 250 grain Shockwaves, Hornady SST-ML (actually the identical bullet as the Shockwave except the tip is red instead of yellow), Barnes MZ Expander 250 and 300 grain.

Then I discoved a company called MMP who I believe actually pioneered the use of sabots in modern times. They produce sabots used by several different bullet companies, including Barnes, I understand. They make some thinner .50 cal sabots, like the HPH-24 and even thinner 3-Petal EZ. The 3-Petal EZ with the 250 MZ Expanders loads much easier than anything so far. Another tip Barnes gave me is to wet the sabot just before loading it with saliva or bore butter, but I haven't tried that yet. Another thing I ordered and just received today so haven't had a chance to try it is a Power Rod from T/C. This is a solid aluminum ramrod with a folding T-handle on one end.

The Triumph is my first in line, so I'm still learning more and more about getting accuracy out of it, although I was actually shooting some sub-MOA groups last Saturday at 100 yards and that was in very gusty wind conditions. I really like the gun and will be using it on a wild boar hunt in a couple of weeks.

I hope this helps you.

Welcome to the forums!

Dimitri