First, before we proceed, let's keep in mind that the written word is very cold and can be perceived in many ways. We strive for a friendly forum and shareing information is what we are about.

Before this turns into a moly fight lets keep in mind that moly reduces friction and allows the shooter to fire more rounds before removing copper is necessary to restore accuracy.

The test that Varmint Al performed and has on his website is valid and moly will cause corrosion.

Any barrel that is moly treated and/or fires moly coated bullets that is not cleaned before leaving the range will suffer the effects of corrosion. The degree dependant on the time before cleaning.

It is true that the benchrest users are moving away from moly and for many reasons. There is enough read on the net about the subject to make up your own mind about moly.

Those who use moly get great accuracy longer in the guns they us it in. They do have to go through and extensive cleaning process every time they shoot using solvent mixtures.

I wonder about the crown corosion on these rifles and wonder if it was caused by moly or was it Sweets, etc. left in the bore too long and not removed and oiled properly. Improperly used ammonia based solvents are more damaging to bores than moly. If you don't remove the ammonia based solvents properly and then oil the bore and areas of metal that the solvent splashed on you will get rust that causes pitting. Not good for the custom or factory barrel.

As for the road map question I think that he is refering to the patern on the patches he ran through the bore. I have had several of those maps myself.

I have never tried moly because of all the concerns posted here. I have tried another product that does not create problems and is much easier and cleaner to apply. Fastex, available from Northland Shooters Supply, does what moly was supposed to without the corrosion problem. But that will probably start another argument.

One thing for sure, if you are a hunter that is a low volume shooter, you don't need the coatings. If you benchrest or varmint hunt and shoot long shot strings then you may want to consider a coating. There are several to choose from and Moly and Fastex are just two. But, here again, coatings are not necessary and BR and varmint hunters do just fine without.

Ok, lets move on,
Chris

BillPa:

1) No not a barrel maker, just a machinist. Initial measurements were done with calipers to measure the ID (pre and aft my cleaning) then slugging the barrel to get throat errosion specs and final ID specs with an indicator and micrometer and other devices which i'll list later. Coating process and how many rounds, i have no idea....Factory ammo and i'd guess at over 1000 rounds, but i'm guessing? Cleaning i don't know that either, i'm not around when he does it but i know it isn't at the range.

2) The expantion was caused by corrosion that was caught between the moly and the barrel due to the ill effects and reactions moly has with condensation and humidity. His (and to be somewhat bold) ignorance in not knowing something was wrong was not my problem until he asked me for help. And sure, you do prove good points, however, i'm not a physics major and can not explain WHY nothing had blown prior and in the midst of shooting.

3) Good to hear about your success...But other that what i have mentioned before about corrosion and reaction and not being a physics major, i have no answer.

4) Cleaning with Shooters Choice, then noticing the corrosion, and it's not hard at all to look down a barrel with a good light and visually see imperfections. Although yes, i do have a Hawkeye borescope at my disposal and other precision machinery at my brothers shop including CMM machine and other X,Y,Z, manipulation devices as well as optical comparators and bore gages.

And like i said prior, factory ammo, and while not sure what kind he did buy it off the net and in abundance.

Lastly, i gather this was in a way (or maybe not and correct me if i'm wrong) a question of my integrity? I have no problem answering your questions, but i am not here to prove anything either, but i do however hold my word and stand my ground to the highest regard. I am just a fellow hunter looking to share info and stories just like other people here. But i will admit that i do have 'sometimes' too much time on my hands, which gives me the ability to test and form opinions about certain products/things that i have used.

Peace

popgun wrote:

First, before we proceed, let's keep in mind that the written word is very cold and can be perceived in many ways. We strive for a friendly forum and shareing information is what we are about.

Well said.

Quote::

I have never tried moly because of all the concerns posted here. I have tried another product that does not create problems and is much easier and cleaner to apply. Fastex, available from Northland Shooters Supply, does what moly was supposed to without the corrosion problem. But that will probably start another argument.

I was wondering when Fastex would be mentioned in a thread... not specifically in this thread, but in general due to it being a hot topic on this website a couple years ago (sad we lost all those messages... well technically they arent truely "lost", I have'em but dont have a converter to convert them to this new software).

I came very close to trying Fastex then got distracted and never got around to it, then it seemed the "buzz" sortof died off on it. I am still curious if people still use it and any cons exist after all this time. To me the biggest "con" is the heat treatment of the barrel... just seems kindof a pain to preform... is it worth using?


-DallanC

Could it be that moly tends to draw moisture??? Thus causing rust or for those with college educations, corrosion or oxidation???

I wanted to try moly, but decided to wait until more was known about it. Now that all the oohing and aahing has ceased it seems maybe it wasn't such a great idea. You rarely hear any more about it now. I'm kind of glad I waited and think I'll just give up the idea. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

Bushmaster wrote:

Could it be that moly tends to draw moisture??? Thus causing rust or for those with college educations, corrosion or oxidation???

I think you hit the nail on the head with this one. N whoz ben ta kollige giten edgikasionz? Frat boys--->

I was told that if I put all my schools, Navy training and schools that the company has sent me to plus my experience together I would have a masters degree in Diesel engineering. I'm a master Mechanic in Marine and industrial diesel. I asked "what for...I'm about to retire." I'm not against higher learning. Out of five children I have two college grads that I have to remind just where they came from every so often. I sometimes think they go to college and come out dumber then when they went in. They seem to loose their common sense...One has a masters in Business CPA and the other has a BA in business admin. I do have one that has been to Mixoligy college. Would that count for a degree??? He sure comes in handy at my bar at home...

Now if I could only read what you said at the end of your post 515034s10ring L O L

Bushmaster wrote:

Now if I could only read what you said at the end of your post 515034s10ring L O L

That's just 'old school'....you wouldn't know nothin about that.

Btw Bushmaster, i wish Diesel Engineering (or any field of) would have found it's way to me first because it honestly fascinates me!

Take care