I really hate that term but figured it would get attention.

I took the plunge today and bought my first suppressor. Dead Air Primal 46. I want to be able to suppress the .45-70 and .458 SOCOM, but it will probably spend most of its time on a bolt action .350 Legend. I've already loaded up some Hornady 250 grain Sub-X bullets to try.

The Dead Air rep was at a local gun shop and we got to have a pretty long, detailed conversation. I learned several things about the technology and the legal crap. One thing we talked about was the supersonic crack from the bullet. It seems that that alone is about 135 db.

By the way, Dead Air is now 3D printing some impressive looking suppressors. Pretty cool technology! Spiral baffles and the whole thing, except the end pieces, is one piece. However, they don't make a .45 cal version yet.

Right. In calibres bigger then .30 you will still get a fair bit of noise,it's a big hole.think boy racer exhaust Vs a stock std VW Beetle with its 1" tubes. Pure physics you can't get around. The other thing you can't get around,the bigger the internal volume of suppressor,the better it will work.more room to capture, temporarily hold gases. Doesn't really matter if that first chamber is over barrel or muzzle forward. A stainless steel blast baffle will both increase life of suppressor by taking the hot hit,and help quiten it as one more barrier to get through. A neoprene sleeve on outside of can helps dampen what you hear. Subsonic is quiet,just over1100-1300fps kills much much better and still reasonably quiet. Full speed is full noise,good suppressor will take that back to similar to a 22 magnum level.

Yes you can't get rid of supersonic crack unless you slow things down n loose killing power. Great for finishing shots but not so flash for normal usage UNLESS you buy very expensive projectiles like Lehigh brand and get all things lined up so are super accurate at placing shots.

I love to shoot my 4570 at subsonic speed.
I throw 500 grains boolits that I cast myself.
Unfortunately in Oz we cannot own a suppressor so I compensate by loading to get as high as possible amount of burned powder inside a long barrel before the projectile gets out of the muzzle, the end result is a lot quieter shots.
There is still some sound heard, but it is more like a "phtuth" rather than a "boom"

Has anyone ever heard of using milk of magnesia on the threads for mounting a suppressor, as an anti seize? I read that today elsewhere.

Still waiting on paperwork before I can take mine home.

Pumpkinslinger wrote:

Has anyone ever heard of using milk of magnesia on the threads for mounting a suppressor, as an anti seize? I read that today elsewhere. Still waiting on paperwork before I can take mine home.

That’s a newie on me mate…and I can’t see how it would work. Do yourself a favour and buy a container of Loctite Anti Seize grease. It is perfect for shotgun chokes, for moving components on reloading presses, in fact anything that needs a little lubrication and you don’t want to seize up. MEC actually recommend it for the sizing mechanism on their 12g reloading presses.

I believe the grease is impregnated with aluminium and has a million uses around the workshop or garage. I use it regularly. My Dad had problems wth the wheel nuts always seizing up on his VW Bomby (comby van)…I applied this product to the lug nuts and he never had the problem again. There is a similar product made by CAT that uses copper instead of aluminium in the grease and it is every bit as good.

I've always used Permatex Anti-Sieze with no complaints. I really doubt there's much difference between the primary big name MFGs.

-DallanC

DallanC wrote:

I've always used Permatex Anti-Sieze with no complaints. I really doubt there's much difference between the primary big name MFGs. -DallanC

Peratex products are fantastic. Their sealants, rubber andhesives and gasket makers are my “go to” whenever I have a need for any of these type products.

Oh, I agree with using the correct stuff. I just thought it was interesting. I did a little checking and found that a few folks claimed that it worked well in very high temperature situations. It evaporates and the residue is very heat resistant. Kinda doubt I'll be trying it though.

Just bit of grease or oil.or nothing.DO NOT leave can on rifle when not in use. Barrel will rust to buggery quick smart if you do. Moisture from shooting etc has nowhere to go. I store my cans on top of gun safe and loosen the segment threads and add a bit of frog lube if feeling fancy.