why don't you think about the other approach: a heavy lead bullet and subsonic velocity?
For .308 Win you can even buy subsonic ammo and when you can buy it, you should also be able to produce it yourself cheaper and even better...

and think about a soft lead bullet of about 180 grain that's powdercoated and pushed to about 400-450 m/s... you and your shoulder will love it

Aloysius wrote:

why don't you think about the other approach: a heavy lead bullet and subsonic velocity? For .308 Win you can even buy subsonic ammo and when you can buy it, you should also be able to produce it yourself cheaper and even better... and think about a soft lead bullet of about 180 grain that's powdercoated and pushed to about 400-450 m/s... you and your shoulder will love it

You’ve read my mind mate…that is exactly what I have in mind for, initially, range plinking, and then in the field.

Both of my .308s work very well 150 gr Hornady Interlock soft points over 45 gr of H380.

Bushmaster wrote:

Both of my .308s work very well 150 gr Hornady Interlock soft points over 45 gr of H380.

If I remember correctly Bushy, your loads are very accurate mate. The 150gr bullet seems to be “go to” bullet weight for the 308WIN, and you can drive them hard enough to harvest pretty much anything…assuming your aim and bullet placement skills are up to speed.

Back in the day when I was shooting IHMSA with my 30.30 TC Contender, I used 165gr bullets (brand escapes me…too long ago) and they were pretty good, but I think the 150gr weight is more versatile…fast, slow or in between it will generally do the job. Personally I like the Hornady offerings, but as I’ve said, I’m looking at all options…although the lead free bullets might well have price themselves out of my market.

165 has longer legs than the 150s but unless your stretching the barrel,the 150 bug std cup n core will do anything you ask. You can often pick up bulk lots cheaply. If looking at slow cast/quiet loads...weight doesn't need to be above 150grn as that's enough to through n through on chest hits on up to deer sized game...but supersonic normal loads kill much cleaner. Slow quiet ones great fun for plinking .

Elvis wrote:

165 has longer legs than the 150s but unless your stretching the barrel,the 150 bug std cup n core will do anything you ask. You can often pick up bulk lots cheaply. If looking at slow cast/quiet loads...weight doesn't need to be above 150grn as that's enough to through n through on chest hits on up to deer sized game...but supersonic normal loads kill much cleaner. Slow quiet ones great fun for plinking .

I have a 160gn mold for cast 308 projectiles that I use for my 30.30 Mod 94, so that will no doubt be the bullet I’ll use for cast loads. From memory it’s a flat nose, can’t remember if it’s an RCBS or LEE mold (I have both brands), and it’s quite an accurate bullet from my lever gun, even when driven slow, so in a 308 it should be good.

I’m just waiting on the Firearms Registry to do their bit and approve my Permit To Acquire…should only take another week…then I can pick up my new, albeit used, rifle.

Vince, Hornady has the CX line of all-copper bullets. They get good reviews.

If you need a tree-shooting load let me know and I'll see what I can come up with!

Pumpkinslinger wrote:

Vince, Hornady has the CX line of all-copper bullets. They get good reviews. If you need a tree-shooting load let me know and I'll see what I can come up with!

Tree shooting load…that I will mate. I hadn’t noticed the Hornady offering. I’m rather partial to the Hornady brand, but it all comes down to what my new rifle likes or dislikes. I’ll look at trying a few different bullets…finances allowing.

Well, heading home tomorrow…a 750 mile trip, but I’m looking forward to getting home and picking up my “new” 308 rifle. It will probably be Thursday before I can get it, but that’s ok, it’s only another day. Time allowing, I am looking at heading out to the range with some PPU 150gn factory rounds to check zero and see how everything performs.

I picked up my “new” (to me) .308 Stevens rifle yesterday. It looks good, although the synthetic stock is nothing to write home about…rather ordinary. I think I’ll source a “stick on” camo kit like I have on my .223 as it gives the rifle a whole new look. In the meantime, I’ll program a range day so I can zero the scope and put down some groups.

Good catch! I have a Stevens Model 200 and several Savage Model 110 rifles and really like them. When paired with Hornady bullets, they really perform well and deserve more respect than they currently get from some gun scribes and shooters. All the best...
Gil

Gil Martin wrote:

Good catch! I have a Stevens Model 200 and several Savage Model 110 rifles and really like them. When paired with Hornady bullets, they really perform well and deserve more respect than they currently get from some gun scribes and shooters. All the best... Gil

I’ve always liked the Hornady bullets and use them exclusively in my .223 Savage (55gn VMax), Weatherby .243 (87gn HP) and Winchester Mod 94 (160gn FTX). Pushed along by ADI BM8208 powder, they shoot better than I can. Only problem I have is Hornady Bullets, in the range I want, are hard to get out here in Australia. I’m not sure of the reason…either shortages in the US or the importers out here favour certain outlets..but I’ll keep looking.

I’ve bought a hundred PPU cases and have Remington LR Primers on hand, so I’ll have a look at what bullets I have on hand to do some handloading and testing. I’m looking at the bullet below to see how they go. The Hdy Interlock has always has a reasonable reputation, so at AUD$12.50 for 25, it may well be worth buying a hundred.

My first range outing with my “new” Stevens 200 in 308WIN. Watching the weather…a thunderstorm predicted…but hopefully I will at least get the scope zeroed.

All setup with first round down range imminent. I was a bit unsure what to expect because I had this niggling feeling that recoil was going to be rather stout given the Stevens 200 is a very light rifle. I eased into position, lined up the scope on the centre of the target at 100m, and gently squeezed the trigger. BOOM…holy hell …did I say the recoil would be stout? The rifle kicked like a mule as it thumped into my shoulder. I was using PPU 150gr factory ammunition and was not expecting them to be so “strong”.

I shook my head and waited for my eyeballs to stop spinning and vibrating, grabbed my spotting scope and checked the target, half expecting to see it burnt to a crisp as though hit by a TOW Missile or similar. Lo and behold, a hole had appeared at around 5 o’clock about 8” low and 9” right.

Now how do you do the two round zero? I did what I thought was correct and the next shot wasn’t even on the paper…BUGGER. Figuring I must have turned the adjustment the wrong way (I’ve never been able to grasp the Front Focal Plane as opposed to the Rear Focal Plane concept). OK, reverse the adjustment and adjust the other way. The next shot was way low and to the left. OK says me, this should be easy…guesstimate the distances up and right (I couldn’t go forward to measure definitively) and adjust accordingly. Yeah, right. Again, the next shot wasn’t even on the paper. OK I says to myself…check the sight mounts to ensure everything is snug and tight. All screws and mounts were good…it has to be me!

The guy on the bench next to me said to use his spare target at 50m to at least get on the paper. Fired off round #5…did I mention they are bloody stout? Once again I waited until my head stopped vibrating then checked the target. Damn, there were about 6 or 8 x 6.5mm holes from when he was zeroing. Close examination showed one hole slightly larger to be mine…right back where I started. OK, once again, adjust and test. Lo and behold, things are finally coming together.

I move back out to 100m and put down a 3 shot group. I’d no sooner fired the last shot when the thunder and lightning started, with the sky being blacker than the inside of a dog’s guts. They closed the range and we all scarpered out to grab our targets. That was the end of the days shooting as the weather had beaten us.

As it turned out, it didn’t rain…it was just all wind, noise and light, although other parts of Brisbane were smashed with big hail and heaps of rain.

I’m going to revisit my rifle with a view to adding a little weight and make things a bit more comfortable without sacrificing portability. That’s a job for another day. I did however get closed to zeroing the scope, not that it matters now as I’ll be removing the action from the stock so I can add some weight.

Not sure when I can next get to the range, but when I do, I’ll get this thing zeroed and ready for the field.

Savage huh... Did mates in 7mm magnum.would be same weight as your o8!!!! Fill foreend with wheel weights or lead shot and hot glue them in place. The butplate comes off revealing another big cavity to add weight.... Suppressor would sort it easier,pity the gubberments are so dumb about them.

Elvis wrote:

Savage huh... Did mates in 7mm magnum.would be same weight as your o8!!!! Fill foreend with wheel weights or lead shot and hot glue them in place. The butplate comes off revealing another big cavity to add weight.... Suppressor would sort it easier,pity the gubberments are so dumb about them.

You have read my mind mate. Rather than hot glue, I’ll use automotive filler (bog). This gives me the opportunity to mix the shot with it and still have “work” time. With the buttstock, I have some aluminium tubing that I’ll fill with shot and glue in place inside the buttstock. All up, I’m looking at adding somewhere between 300 and 500 grams of weight. I also plan on putting a 2mm thick, 5mm high, aluminium strip, on edge, down the centre of the fore-end to make that more rigid. In addition to all of the above, I’ll also bed the action, especially over and around the recoil block (of course it’s plastic ) which is apparently the area that is prone to flexing, then it’s back to the range to re-zero and start testing my loads. Oh well, if nothing else, I will get some recoil therapy.