Hi,
Just got a beautiful 700BDL,almost new, in 8MM Remington Mag. ang it shoot very well. I might use it for moose hunting and I would like to crimp the bullets with no cannelure (Nosler 200 grs Accubond) as I do for my other rifle with Lee Factory dies but Lee do not make any, any suggestion

Perhaps can use another FCD that has a similar length, and bore out the crimp hole to your requirement?

gelandangan wrote:

Perhaps can use another FCD that has a similar length, and bore out the crimp hole to your requirement?

Hi gelandangan,
I tried this with my 300WBY. and my 375 H&H as they are all base on the 300H&H brass but it is not ideal. I was going to order a special FCD from Lee but with the Covid they don't take any special order.
Thank you for your time.

I shoot a 7STW, which is basically the 8MM Rem Mag necked down to 7MM. Its an amazing caliber. I dont have a crimp die specifically for it, but can put a mild roll crimp on it with the seating die adjusted down. I've not noticed any bullets moving in cases due to recoil, really the primary reason crimps are used.

-DallanC

DallanC wrote:

I shoot a 7STW, which is basically the 8MM Rem Mag necked down to 7MM. Its an amazing caliber. I dont have a crimp die specifically for it, but can put a mild roll crimp on it with the seating die adjusted down. I've not noticed any bullets moving in cases due to recoil, really the primary reason crimps are used. -DallanC

Hi DallanC
I think I will try a mild roll crimp just enough not to damage the bullet and see how it shoot. Thank you

I was looking/reading a post the other day on projectile pulling and saw a fella using wire crimping/stripping pliers,you know the ones with multiple different sized holes along length for different size wires???
my thought train is different to most folks,looked at picture and thought to self ......a fella could crimp projectiles pretty darn easily using something like that...after all,all you are doing is SLIGHTLY turning the last 1mm/20th of inch inwards to make it grip slightly better and stop projectile sliding.
indeed a fella could use many plier like hand tools to do job if took it slowly and gently,turning case as you go.

lots of seating dies instructions tell you to screw in die until touches case mouth and screw back out X amount if no crimp is desired...so dont screw back out/screw SLIGHTLY in and see if it achieve what you want.
hope that helps.

Again from different thread on different topic,some 6 mths ago....actually on reloading the old .44/40 you can crimp using a pipe cutter.just do so gently. I may even give it a whirl on some .45/70 just for grins n giggles with my black powder duplex loads.

The problem with using the seating die for crimping is that all the cases have to have the exact same length. If not, there will be much difference in how much crimp you apply. On the other hand, you will see a lot of difference between annealed and not-annealed cases. When you don't anneal the friction of the neck might be enough to keep the bullet in place. So I would recommend to try not-annealing + only neck-sizing (resize about 80 % of the neck), it might be enough to keep you happy.

Aloysius wrote:

The problem with using the seating die for crimping is that all the cases have to have the exact same length. If not, there will be much difference in how much crimp you apply. On the other hand, you will see a lot of difference between annealed and not-annealed cases. When you don't anneal the friction of the neck might be enough to keep the bullet in place. So I would recommend to try not-annealing + only neck-sizing (resize about 80 % of the neck), it might be enough to keep you happy.

Lucky for me I have 125 new brass, so no problem with the length or annealing.

Depends what die it is some of them dont have the crimping bit in them anymore.

I’m not a Machinist or a Tool Maker, but if you had access to a lathe and/or mill, how difficult would it be to either modify an existing FCD or even make one of your own, sharing the crimp collet between same size dies?