777

vint2 wrote:

777

Granulated or pelletized?


I really think you have a bullet seating issue. Is the ramrod marked and are the bullets seated on the powder charge the same way every time?

Try firing one shot, remove the breech plug and see if you have a ring "crud" where the sabot was seated against the powder.

That "crud" will make seating subsequent bullets exactly the same nearly impossible. As we all know ,the key to accuracy is consistancy. Try the Rem. Cleanbores or the Winchesters and see if they make a difference.

I only shoot pellets of 777, and had a SERIOUS issue with seating a second or even a third bullet until I switched to Winchester 777 primers. I'm not sure if you will experience the same issue shooting granulated 777.

Or you could try swabbing the bore between shots. Most likely to NOT get a second shot with a ML rifle. (Hoping ya don't need it, but you never know), but I have killed a second deer with a second shot, so you never know!

I have not used an inline before, or sabots, so this ring business is new to me!! I have always used maxi hunter 275 gr lead and 90 gr fff Pyrodex in my frontloaders up to now. It gives me one more thing to check out the next time I shoot! By the way I have always used granulated powder so I can develope a load in small increments.:)

777 with a hot primer leaves a "crud ring" in the breech...making consecutive shots difficult to seat.....which fugs up any hope for accuracy.

I've never had that problem with BP....grins.

Can you get real BP?

I'd try it if I was you, true weigh the charges, seat to a specific depth each time....and dry brush between shots with a soft bronze brush.

Betcha you'd shoot bug holes.....................

I got away from bp a long time ago because of the mess in cleaning up, but no problem to try it again. It is something to consider! Built my first kit over 30 years ago!!

I can't like doing things the hard way either...but BP is little bother if you have a system.

I dry brush between shots, which does what swabbing does without the mess and without introducing moisture to the bore. 3 or 4 strokes up and down then dump the soot out. A worn brush works better for this than a brand new one. I've stuck a new brush and learned that the hard way.

So basically, I am cleaning up after only one shot at the end of the day.

I mix Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide for a cleaning solution. That solution gets poured into the bore and left standing up for about twenty minutes. It's poured out and discarded after that and the bore is then wet/dry patched with the same solution until patches come out white....takes about 5 or 6 patches. Then the bore is wet/dry patched with Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner, that takes about 3 or 4 patches. Then I run about 5 dry patches down and one oily patch to finish.

The whole thing take about 5 minutes not counting the 20 minutes time it takes for the oil soap mixture to foam up the little bit of fouling that's in there.

'Tis fast, easy, and the bore is absolutely clean.

Best of all, no burnt fingers/hands from boiled water...................................

Should note also that I hunt with a clean dry bore and we all know that a fouled bore impacts differently than a clean dry one. Dry brushing between shots yeilds a bore, during practice sessions, that represents closest to a clean dry bore.

Therefore all of my shots, during practice, will impact same/same with that first shot on a Game Critter. Many three shot clover leaf groups on paper and a few Game Doubles have left me convinced of that.

A quick second shot on the same critter or a quick shot on a second critter will only impact slightly different and of little consequence as the bore at that point is only slightly fouled being just the second shot out. One big plus for BP and my reasoning for liking it over the substitutes.

The trick for my game is a "clean" dry bore for all shots taken..........

Most of my traditional front loaders wont shoot accurately unless real BP is used.....Go ahead and laugh, but my 50 caliber TC Pen Hunter shoots 4"+ patterns with Pyrodex and clover leaf clusters(1.5") with FFF Goex. My 32 caliber Squirrel rifle shoots patterns with Pyrodex and will take a bushytails head off with 25gr FFF Goex @ 50 yds. consistantly.
And when your barrel is "seasoned" with BP, the clean up is not so bad. you wont get the crud rings.

Looks like I am going to try some things and see what happens, then come back and post some data here!!!

Forgot to mention that I also spit patch between shots. And I MEAN "SPIT" not a manufactured bottled stuff, I realy "Slober" on a patch and run it down the bore between shots. No fancy shmancy crap here!

I don't use anything between shots in the field as I very rarely ever need them or use them, but I can see a lot of things that work for a lot of different people!!

vint2 wrote:

I don't use anything between shots in the field as I very rarely ever need them or use them, but I can see a lot of things that work for a lot of different people!!

The new break-action inlines (which I believe yours is) offer a lot of possibilities for experimentation. It's never been easier to "see" what's happening inside the bore, which helps to decipher accuracy issues.

Also, you can swab (or even dry brushand swab from the breach end with no worries of introducing moisture in the bore. In my T/C Encore, I remove the breech plug after each shot, and run a dry patch on a jag from the breech end out through the muzzle.

Good point,Joe! One thing I have done is check out my 209 primers with no load and I find I have about 2-3 inches of fire coming out the muzzle with just the primer!!! Leads me to believe that this primer is way to hot!!

wildswalker wrote:

I mix Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide for a cleaning solution. That solution gets poured into the bore and left standing up for about twenty minutes. It's poured out and discarded after that and the bore is then wet/dry patched with the same solution until patches come out white....takes about 5 or 6 patches. Then the bore is wet/dry patched with Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner, that takes about 3 or 4 patches. Then I run about 5 dry patches down and one oily patch to finish.

In what ratio are they mixed?

I'm fairly new to the ML world (got my first one 5 yrs ago), and pelletized propellents seemed the way to go when I started. I achieved decent results with them , therefore I saw no reason to change. I know that I can "tweak" my loads, and get better accuracy with either BP or with "loose" subs, I just never bothered.

hunterjoe21 wrote:

wildswalker wrote: I mix Murphy's oil soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide for a cleaning solution. That solution gets poured into the bore and left standing up for about twenty minutes. It's poured out and discarded after that and the bore is then wet/dry patched with the same solution until patches come out white....takes about 5 or 6 patches. Then the bore is wet/dry patched with Carb Cleaner or Brake Cleaner, that takes about 3 or 4 patches. Then I run about 5 dry patches down and one oily patch to finish. In what ratio are they mixed? I'm fairly new to the ML world (got my first one 5 yrs ago), and pelletized propellents seemed the way to go when I started. I achieved decent results with them , therefore I saw no reason to change. I know that I can "tweak" my loads, and get better accuracy with either BP or with "loose" subs, I just never bothered.

Joe, that is the fun of bench shooting! You get to try a lot of different loads and ideas to find out what works best for you!!!