I took a closer look at the primer. There was one good hit but it was off-center. Maybe the primer is dead ..... but I'm going to try a second set-up to see if I can initiate the primer and blow the case out. The issue now is that the bullet, without the weight of the rod, is more likely to go down the barrel so I need to take that in consideration.

Vince wrote:

... or a .22 rimfire fired from close enough to deliver good force.

Reminds me of growing up, we'd stuff shotgun shells into the archery straw bales and shoot the primers with pellet guns. Usually the shot didn't penetrate all that much but the shell would go flying back towards us at a frightening rate. Was alot of fun

Odds are with as lodged as this is, if the case base isn't supported and you could fire something in there and hit the primer, it would probably separate at the base of the case with the majority of the pressure relieved out the rear. Of course you'd still have a lodged bullet in there and probably half a case but with the danger of it going off removed, you can get even more creative with extraction.


-DallanC

Wow thats alot of wear on those m4 feed ramps. How many rounds through this gun?


-DallanC

DallanC wrote:

Wow thats alot of wear on those m4 feed ramps. How many rounds through this gun? -DallanC

I agree Dallan. The top two recesses look badly worn, or did you deform them in trying to dislodge the round Slim?

Obviously can't see the inside if the primer, but there is no reason that primer won't still detonate...unless it was faulty to begin.

Next step is to see why this happened. Check your dies, brass etc to endure everything is within spec.

DallanC wrote:

Wow thats alot of wear on those m4 feed ramps. How many rounds through this gun?

This upper is my "play" upper and the least value so I installed the barrel in it for "Round 2". That way I won't cry if it gets damaged.

What you see is a modification leading up to the feed ramps that lets me load 2.425" COAL for my 6.8mm SPC II. That's up from the standard AR mag length of 2.260". The extra 0.165" gives me more powder volume and gets 130 and 150 grain bullets closer to the lands for better accuracy. Kind of makes it into a 6.8 Magnum.

Yes I like to experiment.

Vince wrote:

Next step is to see why this happened. Check your dies, brass etc to endure everything is within spec.

Vince, this brass was resized for me by a friend (no, don't say it). I haven't been cleaning my chrome barrel much. It seems to go for hundreds of rounds without any fouling. I clean it once a year or so. I think the problem is my chamber got dirty and this case might have been a bit too large.

Things I've already changed.

- Bought myself some Redding Competition Dies
- Got a round checker that checks all dimensions of the round when you drop it in the case gauge.
- standing by to scrub the heck out of the chamber.

Oh well, sitting back, waiting with bated breath for the outcome mate.

if banging didnt work get you a candle and cook the sucker

For Pete sake slimjim...I'm 71 and running out of time here. Just hit the dang thing with a hammer. That ought to chamber the cartridge.

Geez...I only have 29 years left. Let's get it done!

Don't forget the video...

That cartridge looks like having a really bad day.
To do this thing well, you should rest the nail/crew on the primer, doable simply by punch the nail through a piece of cardboard and adjust the position of the cardboard so the nail aimed exactly where you want it to hit.
Simply drop a hammer onto the nail head and if it is located properly, you would hit the primer Ok.

Vince wrote:

I think everyone is assuming that the bullet (projectile) is a cast boollit Slim. What is it mate, cast or jacketed? If it is cast, it shouldn't be too difficult to "melt" the boollit using chemicals as described by others...assuming said chemicals don't trash your barrel in the process. (Ammonia will attack copper, but it will take quite some time to work.) If it is a jacketed bullet, then that is a whole new ball game mate. I am sure that using the "nut on a threaded end of the rod" will, if nothing else, separate the rod and bullet, then you can sit back and think about how to remove the stuck round. The rim of the case should be the weakest part, maybe you can TAP the cocking lever with sufficient force to pull the extractor clear of the base of the round, allowing you to at least remove the bolt and get at the back of the round. I really am surprised that the rod didn't push and release the round out of the chamber though. Maybe you can find a SAFE way of increasing the force applied to the end of the rod (hit it HARDER) to push everything rearward. You say the rod is now bent...it will only bend so far because of the diameter of the bore, so it should still try to move rearward. Is there a way you could contain a detonation (if it occurred)? If you could get the whole shebang into a press and apply downwards pressure to the rod, or drop a heavy weight onto the end of the rod, I think you will have a win mate. Overriding factor is SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY...make sure you, and anybody else, is in a safe position to avoid injury in case the worst scenario happens. If nothing else will work, and you are prepared to "write off" the barrel, them I would think a power hacksaw through the barrel, just behind where the base of the bullet would be, would allow you to at least make things safe for disposal.

So far, this is the safest idea. If you try to fire that round to get it loose, you will almost certainly bulge the barrel. The chamber is probably already scored. Sacrificing the barrel for safety - and also preventing further damage to other parts of the rifle - seems the way to go.

Looking at that primer if it hasn't gone off already it likely will not go off..

If you cook it off with a candle or even a cheap soldering iron... the primer will blow out and the severe over pressure "Kaboom" is not likely.

I would push a soldering iron tip into the primer and plug it in with a long extension cord (With the video running of course). If the primer ignites it will blow torch the soldering iron but the situation would be a lot less explosive at that point.

Get that barrel out of the upper receiver too. It make it a lot easier to work with.

This is a Kaboom in an AR - Appears WW231 and WW748 are not really interchangeable...

Actually heard a suggestion that seems quite logical....

I gar on tee this will work, I've seen this trick used to bust loose some massively seized equipment and even a patched round ball. You will need a machine shop for this though.

Machine a cap about 1/4 thick to thread onto the barrel. Then tap the center of the cap for a grease zerk., Remove the front sight base and machine a piece of aluminum with a pointed set screw to slip over the barrel and put the set screw into the gas port. Probably wound hurt to put a dab of rtv also. Then attach you grease gun and pump away. You will either push out the brass or break the grease gun.