It makes sense that the primer was the weak link in that chain.

I would check the sizer die setting or the shell holder of whoever resized that case.

Next time try a solid rod instead of a threaded rod.

If the sizing die is set-up correctly and cases are dim checked, I shouldn't need a rod.

Lots of lessons learned here for me.

Still we want kabooms

:bomb: :bomb: :bomb: :bomb: :bomb: :bomb:

It would probably be good to list the lessons learned since as payment for not providing the proper KABOOM entertainment

First, I should preface that I typically use factory FMJ ammo at these carbine action / 3 Gun matches except when I'm firing at steel plates at a club that requires SP/OTM or they are at longer ranges, 200 yards plus. Then I use reloads. This was a reloaded cartridge.

Lessons learned

1. Case check all rezied brass/reloaded ammo
2. Don't use forward assist - it only makes the problem worse
3. Don't use a cleaning rod with an open/threaded tip to try and knock a bullet out. It its all you have than only use light force. If that doesn't push the round out don't hit it harder.
4. it the bullet moves back into the case, give up. The powder column will only act like a shock absorber. Its time to move to the "freeze" it out options.

It does appear that the penetrating oil soak for a week with the barrel up inerted the primer. However, I don't know that I would rely on this always happening.

Did I miss one?

slimjim wrote:

Did I miss one?

Ya.. no kaboom

Seriously, on point 3, a lot of small taps might do better than a big push.
And penetrating oil need time to work.
"it wont happen overnight, but it will happen"

gelandangan wrote:

penetrating oil need time to work.

I used BPlaster and Liguid Wrench and let penetrate for 2 weeks. The only other option might have been Seafoam Deep Creep, I've heard that its the best by a couple of folks.

If I am in 'merica, I would likely to go for kroil.
I heard homebrew concoction of 50-50 sewing machine oil and kerosene works as well.
Personally I just use wd40

With the barrel clear and the AR reassembled with a new handguard/gas block, its ready for a check-out at the range. I wonder if it will shoot as good as it did before?

Post-Op Analysis. The barrel needed a healthy dose of cleaning. Lots of copper fouling. But that wasn't the real issue. I had 2 unfired rounds left from the batch of the handloads that the case stuck in the chamber. Using my Dillan Precision Case Gauge they checked good. However, I picked up a new case gauge last month from Sheridan Engineering.

www.sheridanengineerin...dex-2.htm#

When checking these two remaining cases, they didn't fit. Factory ammo and my latest resized cases did. Guess the Dillon case gauge is a paper weight.

That is nice to also visually confirm case fit. I think I may invest in a few of these.

"Guess the Dillon case gauge is a paper weight."

did the policy at Dillon change? I've always believed in their excellent service, so before I would make myself an extra paper weight, I would address a few words to Dillon (even when it's only to discover that their policy realy has changed over the years. You already have a "no" but you could get a "yes"!)

And when they don't give you a decent answer then I'd like to know, so that I can repaint my press from blue to red, orange or green as a silent protest

Aloys, I went back and checked the Dillon website. Their case gauge is for headspace and trim length only. After this experience, it seems to fall short of the real need.

Most of those case gauges are large in diameter - large enough to let a fat case fit as long as the shoulder is in the right place.

It looks like your new gauge is a keeper.

Drat!! No KABOOM...Drat!!

Glad you solved before you did it again.

Now for the fire test........