I have a Savage model 110E that is about 15 or 16 years old. I use it for deer hunting only and don't shoot it that often. I have had problems with cartridges getting stuck in the chamber after firing 3 to 4 rounds. Any suggestions??? I can barely get the bolt out after firing and the fired cases have a ring around them where they are getting stuck in the chamber. Please help.

Welcome to the Forum!.

Sorry to hear about your problems with a Savage 110 in 7mm Rem.Mag. A couple of questions might provide some clarity. Is is a new or used rifle? Are you shooting factory ammo or reloads? Have you given the rifle barrel and chamber a good cleaning recently? What you describe is an unusual situation. I would clean the bore and chamber and try some factory ammo. If the problem persists, I would contact Savage customer service and get their input. They may be able to assist you. If not, them I would take the rifle to a competent gunsmith for an evaluation. Hope this helps. All the best...
Gil

I have owned the gun since it was new and I have always had this problem when I shoot more than 5-6 rounds. I shoot factory ammo (mostly remington or winchester). I had to have the barrel nut replaced last year because it split and I thought that would help my problem, but it didn't. I have tried cleaning and that did not seem to help any. Thanks for the input.

Thought about replacing the extractor and ejector as well as there springs ??

Dimitri

I don't think it has any thing to do with the extractor or bolt. When I remove the expelled cartridge from the chamber I can see where the cartridge is rubbing or sticking inside the chamber. It seems like the casing is swelling inside the chamber and causing it to bind after it has been shot. This only happens after the cartridge has been fired. Otherwise the bolt, extractor, and spring all seem to work fine. I have no problem chambering and extracting cartridges until thay have been fired. Once they have been fired is when they seem to stick insde where the chamber and barrel meet.

It almost sounds like you have an oversized chamber. My 7mm is a Savage 110e as well and I don't have the problems that your having. I did have a problem chambering with my reloads for awhile, but that was a resizing problem. Are there any weird marks of the cartridge after you get them out? Like maybe a burr or something left when the action was machined?

When the cartridge is removed after firing I can see a scuff ring all around the base of the cartridge. It does seem like either the cartridge is swelling in the chamber or the chamber/barrel has not been sized correctly. I have not tried using premium loads like Hornady,Weatherby, etc.. Would this make a difference? Are the premium loads made with better brass?

Well, the brass will always expand to the chamber walls. I'm thinking that possibly you have an area in your chamber that wasn't tempered correctly. After firing a few rounds that area possible expands farther than the surrounding metal in the chamber actually causing the cartridge to make it's own bulged area stopping the cartridge from coming out. Or an area doesn't expand as far causing the same type of problem. Might be what's going on.

Would I need to take it to a gunsmith to have it tempered?
Any idea what that might cost? Thanks for the input.

Gidday rsr409, how are you mate?

Have you given consideration to having a casting made of your chamber? There are products out there that are specifically made for this and this should give you the opportunity to do a little measuring. It sounds suspiciously like there may be a section that may be "over machined" or similar. I doubt that a chamber would bulge like a barrel can, but it is food for thought. A casting should show you if there are any discrepancies with the size of the chamber. Have you tried measuring a sized or new factory case then a fired one to see just how much of a change there is?

Be interested to see a pic of one of your cases after it has been fired.

Good luck with it mate.

Cheers, Vince

"Be interested to see a pic of one of your cases after it has been fired."

That might be the best idea so far, there's a lot of expertise here rsr if you can submit a pic like that it might give some folks here a better idea

How about the screws for your scope mount? Mine did almost the same thing the first time I loaded it. I took it back to the gun shop where I bought it and they found that the wrong screws were used mounting the scope. They changed it and never a problem since.

d_hoffman wrote:

How about the screws for your scope mount? Mine did almost the same thing the first time I loaded it. I took it back to the gun shop where I bought it and they found that the wrong screws were used mounting the scope. They changed it and never a problem since.

Are you saying you have a chambering problem because of the scope mount screws? If so you have more than a chambering problem, you have a dangerous gun problem. If the scope screws are all the way into the chamber, the so called "Gunsmith" that worked on that gun screwed up and drilled in too far while mounting the scope. The screws should be into a blind hole that doesn't go all the way into the chamber. If it were me I'd take the gun back to the store where you bought it and wrap it around the head of the dipshit that sold it to you. That gun is a danger to fire, the chamber pressure is now being held in by a #10 machine screw and I sure as hell wouldn't want that a couple of inches in front of my face.

The mount screw holes in a 10/110 series Savage are drilled through, not blind holes. The rear one is directly above the top lug seat, if the screw is a tad too long it will contact the locking lug. BTW, they are 6-48 tpi.

Its tough to say what happening without having the rifle in hand, but the first thing I would check it the primary extraction timing, the relationship between the locking lugs and primary extraction cam. If its too early, the lug are still engaged, too late, there will be insufficient force to extract a spent case.

Unlike more conventional actions, the extraction cam is part of the rear baffle instead of a ramp cut in the receiver bridge.

A quick rough way to check...If you suspect the PE is too early, loosen the bolt assemble screw a few turns. That in effect makes the timing later. A shim in the .005" range placed between the baffle and bridge face will make it earlier. This is not a "Fix". There are actual measurements that need to be made for an exact amount of PE.

There are a few thing that can cause hard extraction, the PE timing being one, but dirt in the lug recesses, screws too long (action,scope mount), barrel to bolt face clearance, ejector, etc. Like I said, without having the rifle "in hand" anything is wild guess at best.

Bill

Thanx for explaining that to them Bill.