I get similiar results w aa1680 and found that going to 40 noslers also opened my groups about 100% and chony'd the 35's had a avg vel of 3350 with the aa1680 and very low pressure (primers still really round on the edges using federals) also accuracy on par with your group without floating barrel or hangar accurization my theory is that the small capacity and light bullets don't "twang" the tuning fork too bad. I had a stainless #1 that vertically stung the groups 1.5" before hangar job but went to .75" after (7mmS.T.W.) a whole lot of twang! It's interesting to find someone that validates your data on a similar system. Did you do any testing before your hangar-barrel job?

Sure did, the groups were about 2 inches with the 40s. I do have a 7mm RM that shoots about .5 after a barrel job as well.

When you take a #1 or #3 apart and look at it close you see that it was designed to have a free floated barrel, but Ruger simply cuts that process out as a cost saving item, I am sure.
Best,
Ed

Is it possible to get some pictures posted in regards to what needs to be done to the hanger on the No 1’s
I really like them but have shied away because of this issue as there seems to be very few with any knowledge or experience in dealing with it.

Well,
I guess that could be done and put together as an article It would be a bit lengthy for a post. One drawback is that any work on a Ruger voids the warranty and Ruger figures a 4 inch froup with a #1 or #3 is within specs. I have seen their messages to that effect, where they have returned rifles, sent in for repair, without any work being done on them.

My Idea about the situation is that a single shot that shoots into a 4 inch group is not much to start with so getting the gun to shoot is better than any warranty. I do not buy rifles that look good and that will not hit what I aim at. There is little more worthless in this world than an inaccurate rifle. The other side of the coin is that most shooters do not know how to clean a gun, much less how to work on one.

There is a quick test for a #1. Go by the hardware store, buy a couple of rubber O rings to fit the shank of the forearm screw. Insert an O ring between the forearm and the hanger then tighten the screw until the wood is not loose but the O ring is not crushed either. This should free float the barrel. If not add the 2nd O ring. Many times the effect will be instant and a 50% reduction in group size. But to do the whole job you must also adjust the rear sight rail.

I will work on the article this week.
Best,
Ed

Ed, I didn’t realize that it would be so in-depth and time consuming!!!
Please understand I’m in no position right now to go out and buy one to try my hand at this.
It’s greatly appreciated but I would understand you not wanting to do this just so I could see it at this point.

This is one of those things I can’t understand about manufactures.
The No 1 is a very attractive gun that appeals too many. It’s my believe that Ruger could sell a whole lot more of them if it weren’t for this issue. For them to consider a 4 inch group to be satisfactory in today’s world, it’s no wonder they sell less rifles than the others!!!

Brownells sells a hanger accurizator ; also I've drilled and tapped holes into the hanger for set screws with locknuts, And sometimes just sometimes they don't need anything at all.

Thanks, I'll take a look at it!!!

Ok,
The article on accurizing the #1 has been submitted with the photos. The photos are in my album under Swampfox. If you have a bit of experiance in glass bedding, the process takes longer to describe than to do and once you do one, it is a very easy and short process for the next rifle.

It goes without saying that you can do many things but the process as described is what I do and it has not failed me so far.
Best,
Ed