Looking for a few pointers. My buddy picked up a butt load of reloading stuff from an estate sale. I scooped up some .30-06 brass from him. Some of it is once fired (still has the red ring) and some has been reloaded at least once. My question relates to the many articles I have read in the past claiming many different things that need to be considered when reloading military breass.

1) Primer pocket reaming
2) Care in resizing
3) Drop 1 grain from proven loads to compensate for the added brass
4) Use Winchester primers as opposed to CCI

Can somebody straighten me out on all of this? What I have is 100 rounds of "LC 69", I am assuming this is from a 1969 batch made by Lake City. Any reference or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

It's .30-06 brass. What else do you need to know...Check to see if it has a crimped primer. If not...Load it. Do the usual resizing and other checks you normally do and use what ever primer your heart desires. Like all new loadings, start a bit low (10%) and go from there.

If you are loading for a M-1 Garand you will need others to help you.

1.) Military '06 such as the Lake City cases you have will need to be de crimped before re- priming if this has not already been done. You will need a swage tool Like RCBS or Dillon make. There are other cutters that can trim the crimp off of the pocket too. It is a pain in the backside but you only have to do it once.

2.) If you are going to load it in an auto loader such as the M-1, you will want to Full length, possibly small base re-size it. this is so that chambering will not be an issue and the bolt will close into full battery without resistance from the case in a tight chamber. If you are going to shoot it in a bolt gun, full length size it once, then you can neck size after the next firing if you like or FL size it again.


3.) Most Military .30 cal brass is a bit thicker than commercial brass. This means a bit less capacity and the potential for higher pressure, hence the drop your current load by 1 grain and look for signs of pressure warning that has been around for ever. (BTW- I have not seen this in .223 military brass to the same level as the .30's. Some of the Commercial .223's have less case capacity than the military stuff using the water weight method.)



4.) This relates to auto loaders too. Too sensitive a primer has been thought to lead to slam fires when the bolt closes. My experience and theory on this is that many of these were reloads that did not have the primer seated the requisite.003 below flush.

The military brass is durable and will give you many loadings if you take care of it and you gun does not have excessive headspace.

Look on some of the Highpower shooting sights like NationalMatch.us for more information on military brass.

Bushy - not sure what to look for in a "crimped primer", the primer area on once and twice fired look to be the same - they have a ring that is recessed from the base around the primer pocket but not on the primer proper- is this the crimping? I am just not familar with the term.

Dawgdad...This is you area of expertice as all of my military brass (FC) have no primer crimp. You might post photos of a crimped primer pocket and a non-crimped primer pocket...

I am at work right now but will try to get a photo up of a crimped and no crimped case. The little ring around the primer pocket is the crimp. You can de-cap with no problem but when you go to put a new primer in, it will not fit or if it does you have probably mushed the primer a bit.

if you have some commercial cases you should see and be able to measure the difference.

This is a photo I found online of a crimped 223 case.

www.rcbs.com/default.a...s2=4&s3=39

This link should be to the RCBS Crimp Swage. Dillons is the cats pajama's but you will pay for it.


Some say they have used the de- burring tool to remove the crimp on a few cases. If you have several hundred.... I would consider the swager.

Yup...I have used a 1/2' twist drill bit with a steeper angle grind on it...Twirl it in your fingers. If you have a bunch to do and plan to do more get the RCBS tool.

Thanks Dawgdad...Just knew you had it in ya...We don't need no manual...We have Dawgdad...

Yahoo! I might be able to get a new toy out of the deal....You guys are my heroes!

Yep, that picture is exactly what I have and what I assumed was the crimp. Thanks a bunch!

These folks have given sound advice. I use the RCBS primer pocket swage for large and small primer crimps. Does a great job rather quickly.

Not sure if you are reloading for an M1 Garand. If so, stay away from the slow powders like IMR4350 and IMR4831 which may damage the operating rod. Preferred powders are the mid-range burning rate ones such as IMR4895 or IMR4064.

All the best...
Gil

Wiley,

Are you loading for a bolt gun or an auto loader?

I am loading for a Win Model 70 in .30-06 - bolt action. Wasn't too thrilled about getting the military brass in the bunch at first, but with a little front end work, the brass should last a while.

I have loaded mil. 06 brass since the mid 60s. I cut my primer crimp using an old Lyman tool with the handle removed and chucked up in a drill press. I can de-crimp servel hundred cases an hour this way.