What distance do you use for your first zero (when the bullet first crosses the line of sight)? I used to use 25 yards but now have adjusted to 20 meters (22 yards). This gives me a computed second zero at about 240 meters (265 yards) on my 223 using a 60 grain hp @ 2924 fps. My 308 computed second zero is 200 meters (218 yards) @2482 fps for a 190 grain BTSP. All computations from PointBlank (of course).

How many adjust to maximum point blank range? I have studied the tables etc. and I am not sure if what I am doing is the most effective use of the two calibers. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I use the maximum point blank range for the intended target. The heart and lungs on a coyote are a lot smaller than those on the moose you are going after in November.

Set the PBZ for 10cm (4") for coyote with your load data. I would guess you will be close to a 220m zero with a max PBZ of about 250m.

This means I hold middle of fur from 20m to 250m and do not worry about bullet drop. at 300m I hold top of shoulder, over 300m - I get my .243 or I call them closer...

If you just set the zero further back it will cause the 150m range to be where the bullet is the highest and you can shoot over the tops easily.

I start sighting in at 25 yards and then move to 50 yards, 100 yards, 200 yards and 300 yards (the longest range available at my gun club range). The ballistics charts are helpful, but I like to verify at the range. Take care...
Joe

I only shoot rifles at 25 yards to make sure I'm fairly centered on the paper and I have seen occasionally that I'm considerably off at 100 after being dead on at 25. After that, depending on the cartridge, I zero at 100 yards or 2" high at 100 yards. I have access to a 200 yard range and plan to zero the .260, .280, and like at 200.

not that I know about the shooting over yotes at 150 from personal experience ....


www.huntingnut.com/ind...ght=barber

Using 77gr SMK, I sight my .223 in at 250 yards. That gives me basically a 50 yard first zero. Then the first mil-dot is 350 yards, second mil-dot is 450, and the third mil-dot is 550 yards. That way I can engage targets quickly without turning turrets.

my .223 is 2" high at 100yrds and the .270 is 2"ish high with my 130grn loads and pretty close to bang on with the big 170grainers.

I zero my .22 rimfires 1" (25mm) high at 25 metres. My .243 I sero 2" (50mm) high at 100m. I find this gives me the ability to hold centre of "kill zone" ut to around 300 metres with the .243 and 75 metres with the .22 rimfire.

Cheers, Vince

I zero my .17 Remingtons at 250 yards. Mid-range is only 1.6" and down only 2.3" at 300...about as far as I would shoot with the .17.
My .223s and .22-250 are zeroed at 200 yards and I use my "cheat sheet" and the adjustable turrets to adjust for any further distance.
7mm BR is at 200 yards for 120-grain hunting load and 250 for 100-grain for varmints.
.280 (150-grain) and 30-06 (180-grain) are both zeroed at 150-yards with "ranging reticles" for longer shots.
All of the above loads shoot close enough to POA at 25 yards to make sure they are on paper at 100 and then I do final tweaking at my chosen zero ranges.

As you can see, preferences, usage and ballistics play an important role in actual zero distances. As suggested, PBR is probably your best indicator for your specific uses.

Thanks for the help. Going to look at the PBR table in the back of the program.

If possible(range restrictions, etc.), I see no reason not to zero at MPBR based on the smallest "kill zone" you expect to encounter whilst using that rifle.

We zero at 100y cause that is realistic in our neighborhood. But d.o.p.e. for extended ranges within the cart's capabilities is always handy. it also allows for the smallest amount of apogee at the shorter ranges which I encourage either stalking to or allowing the game into. 95% of game I have shot is within 50 yards. Only on a couple instances was a further shot required. Calling your shot earns you "bonus points". So does getting them to die while running in the direction of the truck. A "hole in one" would probably be awarded if it died in mid-air while jumping into the truck.

LOL on the truck remark. Once went Caribou hunting and had to chase a herd off the road far enough to legally shoot a nice 34 point stag. Rushed the shot and he ran around in a big circle before he finally dropped. You guessed it, he was back up to the side of the road. When we loaded him onto the truck bed all I could think of was, if a warden shows up now he isn't going to believe I shot him 500 yards from the road.

I sighted my 308 in today to shoot 2.5 inches high @ 100 yards with a 190 grain BTSP . MPBR on a moose is approximately 340 yards. Since I never expect to shoot one at that distance I feel comfortable. The problem we have hunting here is it is a mix of open bogland, hilly open areas and woodlands. I have shot moose at just under 300 yards and so close that I had to shoot over my 2.5X scope because all I could see was blurry brown fur. My hunting partner this year is carrying a win 300m with open sites. He gets the close shots .... I hope.

sounds like you have got it sorted MacD.
Once upon a time I used the 3" high at 100 yrds method but found I missed alot and used that as an excuse so dropped it down a little and dont have any problems any more.

For hunting I use the point where the bullet can be blown off target by a 10 mph wind more than my point blank variation. (I compute point blank for a 1" high or low from the point of aim) That gives me a point blank range of around 0 to 200 yards with my 3006. If I NEED to shoot further then I can adjust the scope for the range that the range finder shows. If I can't get within two hundred yards of an animal then I don't need to shoot it.
Paul