I was looking for a nice .25-06 in bolt action when I came across this Ruger No. 1 in .25-06. As hard as I tried I just could not walk out of that store without it. It came with the Leupold 3.5-10X40 scope.

They really are sweet, aren't they... and you did found one with very nice wood. Only 1 remark: I would like a scope with higher multiplication on such caliber, an at least 18x would most likely make me king of the open fields...

Thats a beautiful stock! I love #1's. That barrel looks pretty thick, was this a "V" version?


-DallanC

I checked the serial number and it was made in 2010. Not a scratch on it so I don't think it ever made it to the field. It's a 26" varmint barrel. Very light trigger pull.

Welcome to the club! Ruger #1s have been my first love for years. That one should make you very happy. Nice find.

I must admit, I do like the look and feel of a Ruger #1. I remember in days gone by I wouldn't even bother looking at a Ruger, But I've mellowed now and view them as I would any other rifle.

That is a very nice looking rifle BB...I think you made a good decision to take it home. The wood in that stock is as nice as I've seen in a factory rifle anywhere. Well done mate...I'll be looking forward to a range report.

Very nice pictures. Thanks for sharing. I have a Ruger #1 in .30-06 and really like it. All the best...
Gil

Very nice, awesome timber work as well.

Nice, very nice.

SWEET !!! The Ruger #1 is one of my favorites. Yours is a beauty

I took the Ruger to the range today and had some mixed results. After setting up at 50 yds I moved out to 100 yds and my first group looked like this.



I adjusted the scope one click (1/4 MOA) to the left and fired three more shots and got this.



I could be happy with the groups from factory ammo, Federal 100gr. Nosler BT, but I'm not happy with the 2" jump to the left with a 1/4 MOA adjustment. The scope is tight, nothing loose. I was thinking maybe the forend, they can be funny about that, but then why the nice triangle shaped group. I was also shooting with the rest under the receiver as not to change pressure to the forend. This has me puzzled. I do have another scope I could put on it just to see if it is a problem with the scope. I could also mess with the forend pressure a bit, but whatever I decide to do it will be one thing at a time so I'll know what helped and what didn't.

There's good potential in there BB. No doubt you can tighten that group up nicely with handloads and playing with seating depth etc mate.

Now I don't (read can't afford) use high end riflescopes, but on the grade of scope I use I've found the following helps. Sometimes it takes a couple of 'taps' on or near the reticle adjustment block with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to 'vibrate' the reticle into position after making an adjustment. There shouldn't be a need for this with a high end scope, but maybe a previous adjustment hadn't seated the reticle fully into place and the adjustment you made seated it fully. Just a thought.

Another thought, and apologies for throwing a negative thought in here, but are you sure that the 'Leopold' scope is in fact made by LEOPOLD? The Chinese knock offs are very hard to distinguish from the genuine article, but their performance is crap, as is the build quality. And, of course Leopold won't even look at them. Maybe try the "box test" on the scope...fire a shot or two, 10 clicks right, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks down, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks left, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks up and fire a shot or two...if the scope is OK, you should end up back at your start point.

Whichever way things go mate, you have a damn fine, beautiful looking rifle there. It's easy to replace the scope.

Very nice looking rifle. I've been drooling over the Number 1s for a long time! I want one in a classic cartridge like a .300 H&H or .220 Swift.

Vince wrote:

There's good potential in there BB. No doubt you can tighten that group up nicely with handloads and playing with seating depth etc mate. Now I don't (read can't afford) use high end riflescopes, but on the grade of scope I use I've found the following helps. Sometimes it takes a couple of 'taps' on or near the reticle adjustment block with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to 'vibrate' the reticle into position after making an adjustment. There shouldn't be a need for this with a high end scope, but maybe a previous adjustment hadn't seated the reticle fully into place and the adjustment you made seated it fully. Just a thought. Another thought, and apologies for throwing a negative thought in here, but are you sure that the 'Leopold' scope is in fact made by LEOPOLD? The Chinese knock offs are very hard to distinguish from the genuine article, but their performance is crap, as is the build quality. And, of course Leopold won't even look at them. Maybe try the "box test" on the scope...fire a shot or two, 10 clicks right, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks down, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks left, fire a shot or two, 10 clicks up and fire a shot or two...if the scope is OK, you should end up back at your start point. Whichever way things go mate, you have a damn fine, beautiful looking rifle there. It's easy to replace the scope.

I'm pretty sure the scope is the real deal. I'm not going to change anything for now and on my next range trip I'll try that box test you suggested. I think that will be a great indicator of whether or not it's a scope problem. If that proves to be the case I'll switch it out with a Vortex 3-12x42 that I have and send the Leupold off to be repaired. That jump in the POI does have me thinking it's possibly scope related. Ironically when I first saw the rifle on the sales rack, I loved the look of it, but the added value of the scope was the deciding factor to buy it. I could have bought a NIB rifle for the same price, but the scope added about $600 to the value.

I would investigate the scope first. That's a pretty big jump. Usually forearm contact strings shots, but that second group is pretty tight.

I rest the forearms on my Rugers just forward of the receiver without problems. Remember that if you work on the forearm contact the spring hanger is usually the culprit when groups string vertically. This is reputed to be fairly common with #1s, but I haven't seen it occur on all. It can be cured by installing a Hick's Accurizer (Brownell's) or let me know and I'll be happy to email you instructions on how I cure it without the Hicks device. Good luck and again, great find!