weaver quad locks or the strap over the top type???????
which is better and why????
Ive had strap over top type for 30+ years with no issues and about to purchase new set...... saw the quad locks and thought to ask you knowledgable folk.
price is about the same for both and in range of my budget
no way will I put cheap rings back on rifle after Balls up last weekend, 2 fallow at 125ish yards and I couldnt hit a plurry thing ,managed to tip one over but that wasnt shot where it should be and had hard time finishing it off, completely missed 2nd one 4 times!!!!!!!! got home and rear base had slogged out the main screw

Elvis, is this for you .270 Win?

yip mate...I took off my old set for the young fellas rifle and poked a cheap set on mine,which was a bad call.

warnescopemounts.com/p...ium-rings/

Elvis, these are the rings I have on my. 270. They have held zero flawlessly for many years. They are not suited for taking the scope on and off frequently, however.

I have used the Weaver strap over design before that. Those Weavers held ok but I would see the cross hairs twist from the vertical as I tightened them. The quad locks should not be prone to that.

I threw away all the Weaver strap rings with the screws on one side that I had. They were hard to align the scope crosshairs. Went to Quad Locks on all my rifles with Weaver bases and never looked back. It depends what you prefer. All the best...
Gil

ok sounds like the quadlocts are a better bet, thanks guys.

While we're on the subject of scope rings....

What are thoughts on lapping them?

I have a set of Talley's on my Kimber 300 Win Mag. Santa brought me a new Leupold VX3-I for Christmas. Talley claims there is no need to lap them and it will actually void the warranty, but I want to make sure I have everything just right when I set up my new scope.


www.talleymanufacturin...imber.aspx

Always lap if you have the tools available.

I have set up a bunch of scopes for guys recently and have learned a lot doing it. I will not set up a scope without the alignment bars and lapping rods in the Wheeler scope mount kit. I will not use anything but a torque wrench to tighten the rings or mounts anymore either.

Through the school of hard knocks I have learned that many of what have been termed scope issues were actually mounting issues. The tube within a tube design of modern rifle scopes and the adjusting knobs make it critical that you have the optic close to the center of its adjustments for both windage and elevation. if your rings are not aligned with the bore to start with, you are hosed. If you think about concentric circles, you have the maximum freedom to move the inside circle up or down , right or left when they are both centered. But move the inside circle in any direction from the center and because of the radius of the outer circle, you are losing range of adjustment in not only the direction you moved but the other knobs axis of adjustment as well. Windage adjustable bases and elevation shims are your friends.

Many scopes that guys said would not adjust or would jump clicks were due to having the rings too tight and deforming the outer tube enough to interfere with the erector tube inside form traveling freely. Many scopes that were said to have wondering zeros magically performed when the mounts and rings were properly torqued.

Well said Dwagdad. Guys spend hundreds on a rife, more on a scope and quality rings and then just slap it on that rife assuming its all gonna line up, not bend or twist the scope tube. And torque, I was amazed at the difference in how I used to tighten scopes rings by hand was from the torque driver and using the recommended torque.

I don't currently have the tools, but am not opposed to getting them.

Does anyone here have any thoughts on Wheeler's kit vs. Sinclair's?

www.sinclairintl.com/o...l&psize=96


www.btibrands.com/prod...bo-1-30mm/


I already have the FAT wrench, the professional reticle leveling system and the professional bit set from Wheeler.

I use a Quad-Locks on most of my rimfires. Everything else gets Burris Signatures with the inserts. No need to lap, and the NEVER slip. And with the tapered inserts you can correct wind age issues, or add MOA to your rings.

Midway has the Wheeler kit on sale. I'll end up with some duplicate "stuff", but having 2 FAT wrenches might not necessarily be a bad thing.

Anyone have use for a level-level-level kit???

I received the Wheeler kit a couple days ago, and it got me to thinking about one other issue.

Once the rings are lapped, how do you treat the new raw surface?

In my case, using Talley rings, which are a "high strength aluminum alloy", it may not be a huge issue, but what about steel rings, which have had the finish removed and could be susceptible to rust???