Continuation from my topic:
www.huntingnut.com/ind...pic&t=4431

So today I got a call from my gunsmith.
He said that my bullet jammed really hard on the barrel and could not be removed by "conventional" way (whatever that is).
So now he is going to send the rifle to be cleared "Hydraulically" (whatever that means),
and it gonna cost me big time
Serve me right for being a show off..

so, I am thinking.. Maybe I should do it myself,
I will build a stuck bullet drill for my barrel.
I think using a piece of brass (which is harder than lead but way softer than the barrel) and grind a cutter out of the tip.

Anyone have better suggestion?

Gelan, I find it hard to understand that the bullet can't be driven out the barrel by using a long punch...a bit like slugging your barrel.

If you are going to consider putting any sort of drill down the barrel you will need to be very careful. Maybe use something like a bore guide to help centre your drill bit.

I suppose heating the barrel to siften the lead in the bullet is out of the question. I am not a metalurgist, but I'm sure there is someone here who has the knowledge. What is your barrel made of...stainless or chrome moly? Food for thought.

Good luck with this one mate. I'd hate to see a good barrel ruined.

Cheers, Vince

I wonder if he means using a hydraulic press to push it out? IF you could clamp the barrel well enough, support everything well and lube the heck out of the bore you might be able to do the same thing.

the bullet is a copper jacketed Woodleigh 220gn SOLID.

apparently after attempt to dislodge the bullet in the "range" with cleaning rod, the bullet "expanded and now jammed real hard.

GAH!!!!!

I don't know. If it makes you feel any better ,at my 4-h shooting sports instructor training I saw a Ruger.44 some dope tried to shoot out the bullet and amazingly the magnum hand loaded bullets didn't didn't blow in his face !!

I would imagine that your gunsmith is talking about using liquid under a ram force to expel the bullet. I have never seen this done but have heard of it. If your bullet has expanded as much as you think, I'm not so sure that will even move it.

I have seen bullets removed as your plan outlines; bronze cutter teeth cut into a rod that just fits the bore. If you attempt this, make sure to use plenty of cutting oil to prevent seizing up and to flush chips away.

Or....you could do as I once saw a nimrod do with a stuck bullet in an old .303. He figured (wrongly) that black powder created less pressure than smokeless so he loaded an empty, primed case with black powder, sealed it with a little wax and proceeded to shoot the bullet out of the bore. Made an interesting bulge about 8 inches down the barrel.

Good luck and keep us up to date with your progress.

How far down the barrel is it? The bullet can not expand any more then the bore diameter. I would think that a bronze alloy rod about the diameter of the bore and a good hammer and with the barrel well supported...Lots of penitrating oil (this is where WD-40 might have a use). Let it set over night then put in a good oil after dumping the penitrating oil out. add the oil on the side of the bullet in the direction you wish to drive it...

Just my thoughts...

Bushmaster wrote:

How far down the barrel is it?

its about 16 inches from the bolt head and 8 inches from the muzzle.

I tend to agree with what Bushy has suggested Gelan. Maybe use one of the bore cleaners that "dissolves" copper, then the oil. It may just do enough to get the bullet moving.

Maybe even gentle heat on the barrel to allow it to expand ever so slightly and assist in at least getting the bullet moving. I think that once you start the bullet moving you will have the hardest part behind you. I still believe that the bullet can be driven out using a punch of some sort...it will just take time and a lot of care mate.

Once you do get the bullet out mate I strongly suggest someone with the knowledge and necessary equipment do a check of the barrel to ensure that it hasn't sustained any damage.

Last suggestion.....this is a good opportunity to fit a custom barrel to your Whisper mate.

mate sounds like you have a real delema there. i managed to get a bullet stuck to. forgot to put powder in. i was lucky in that it was only 3 or 4 inchs down the barrel. managed to get a wood dowl and tap it out. took a lot of bashing and splintered a few dowls in the process.good luck. wood mite be softer than brass on the barrel.

I was told on Homegunsmith forum to fill with oil or vaseline then bash with a dowel.

the oil will push

a few stuck blackpowder balls have taught me the tricks i use for anything stuck in the barrel.. first use lots and lots of WD or PB penitrating oil let it sit for a bit, then use a hardwood dowel as close to the diameter of the slug itself.. and slowly tap the obstruction out, if this cant be done, then take a soft hose hode clamp to the barrel end with 2 or 3 clamps, same with other end to a hydrolic fluid pump (i used my mity vac) and pressure it out, you may need to lube the slug, apply pressure and let it sit at pressure for a little before the pop...

of course you can also use a good compressor and air blast the thing out just watch where its pointed.. take the barrel to a local truck tire dealer and talk to one of the guys there they may do it for the cost of a beer or two, or let you give it a shot..

Seems like heating the barrel with a heat gun (not the wifes hair dryer either, mind you) to 250 or 300 degrees would swell the barrel enough to release the 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch that are holding the bullet stuck.

Heat the barrel just enough but not allow the heat to pentrate the bullet, then quickly drive the bullet out with a wood dowel and a hammer.

A barrel can take at least the temperature required to melt solder......

Hammer wrote:

Seems like heating the barrel with a heat gun (not the wifes hair dryer either, mind you) to 250 or 300 degrees would swell the barrel enough to release the 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch that are holding the bullet stuck.

Would my parkerized finish be damaged by the heat?

If it is, reparkerize it.....

Seriously, I'd doubt it, but if you are worried, call the maker of the finish.